Making Plaster (Gypsum) Casts - Summary
(C) 1996-2014, Glen J. Kuban
Plaster-of-Paris and other gypsum-based casting compounds are widely used to make rigid,
inexpensive molds and casts, although casts can also be made out of resin, fiberglass, cement,
and other materials. Generally, one uses a flexible rubber mold (negative impression of a subject)
to make a rigid cast (also called a replica or reproduction) of an original specimen. The original
specimen is sometimes referred to as the subject or model. It is also possible to make a hard impression directly
from the original subject by pouring or applying plaster directly on it, if the subject lacks undercuts
and if the subject is not hard (like a footprint or tire track
in dirt) or a release agent is applied.* Realize that this will result in a reverse image of the original
(technically a hard mold) rather than a cast replica, which has the same relief as the original.
One may also embed a plastic-coated wire or hook in the plaster before it has dried or "set up"
so that the finished cast may be hung on a wall. Plaster can be colored by adding powdered cement pigment, or acrylic paint may be added to water before
mixing. However, this tends to weaken the plaster and it is difficult to achieve an exact, desired
color, so painting or staining the finished cast may also (or alternatively) be done.
Precautions
Always wear a dust mask while mixing plaster to avoid inhaling plaster dust, which is hazardous to one's
lungs. Do not pour plaster (even diluted) down the drain, as it tends to build up
and clog pipes. It's good to use paper cups or flexible plastic cups or bowls to mix the plaster slurry;
after the plaster has set up it can be tapped out of the containers and into a waste receptacle. Do not make plaster casts of
human faces or other body parts without special training, as there risks of plaster burn and inhaling plaster.
Supplies
- Plaster of Paris or gypsum cement
- Water source (water should be reasonably clean and roughly room temperature)
- Mixing cups (preferably flexible plastic, paper or rubber)
- Stirring tools (such as plastic spoons or popsicle sticks)
- Mold or model to cast
- Newspaper and paper towels (to cover work area and clean up)
Optional Supplies
- Release agent (such as spray silicone, or paste wax or Vaseline).
(Not needed if casting plaster into a rubber mold).
- Windex (to reduce surface tension on rubber molds). Use sparingly.
- Brushes (to spread plaster into nooks and crannies of model)
- Oil-based modeling clay (to create retaining walls if needed)
- Acrylic paint (to color plaster or finished cast)
- Plastic-coated wire (18 to 24 gauge) to embed in plaster as hangers.
Procedures
- Gather supplies and prepare work area. Have water source nearby.
- Select and clean subject or mold.
- If subject is rigid, or the casting material is resin rather than plaster, apply thin coat of release agent.
Wipe out any excess agent. This step is not needed if casting plaster into a rubber mold.
- If using a subject or rubber mold without retaining rims, build a retaining wall around it (clay, cardboard, or plastic strips work well).
- Measure water into mixing container. Water volume should be about 2/3 the volume of the cast.
- To color plaster (if desired) add small amount of acrylic paint to water
- Sift plaster into water until a plaster island remains and does not sink.
- Allow plaster to sit a minute or two before mixing. If island sinks, add a little more plaster.
- Stir plaster until smooth and creamy. Mixture should be about as thick as ketchup. Add more plaster if needed.
- (Optional) To help reduce surface tension and avoid air bubbles in the cast, if subject is a rubber mold,
spray a light mist of Windex on the mold. Wipe out any excess Windex.
- (Optional) To further reduce chances of air bubbles, gently brush a small amount of the plaster slurry
over the mold and into all nooks and crannies, before pouring in the rest of the plaster. Tap the mold to settle the plaster.
- Pour additional plaster into the mold to desired level.
- Gently tap or vibrate the mold (or base it sits on) to help raise air bubbles and level the cast surface.
- )Optional) After cast is partially set but still soft, embed a wire hanger if desired. Inscribe one's name if desired.
- When plaster is completely set (typically 15 min to an hour or more, depending on the plaster product used, and
temperature and thickness of the mix), gently remove cast from model.
- Allow cast to fully dry before painting.**
Notes:
* Release agents include spray silicone and wax products, or paste wax or petroleum jelly that can be buffed onto a model.
** Plaster of Paris tends to set up (become dry and firm) faster than gypsum cement, but setting time depends on many factors (air and water temperature,
humidity, specific product used, etc). Some casts may be firm enough to remove in a half hour or less, but still
take a couple hours or more to become dry enough for painting. Others may need to be left in the mold for an hour or more.
Setting of plaster can be accelerated by using warm water, or with certain additives.
These include potassium sulfate and Terra Alba, used commercially. Other soluble salts may also be
used, including common table salt, although they reduce the strength of the final cast and
tend to produce surface efflorescence on drying. For more details on mixing and pouring gypsum casts, see the
U.S. Gypsum page on this topic